Bologna is considered one of Italy’s fresh pasta capital, which makes total sense when you consider that this northern city’s nicknames is “la grassa” (the fat one).
It is in many ways competing with Florence as a touristic hotspot on “must-eat here” Italy travel itineraries. Each have their compliments both worth their salt and offer more than just food and statues, but who wouldn’t want to travel for pasta vs standing in line for overrated panini?
While nearby cities in Bologna’s region Emilia-Romagna like Modena arguably offer a better value and more relaxed vibes (and better ratios of locals to visitors) Bologna is a special place- home to a litany of pastas like tagliatelle al ragù, lasagna and tortellini bolognesi.
In addition to mighty fine cultural sites like the oldest university in the world, a gelato museum, UNESCO-level warmly hued porticos that stretch for miles and various attractions.
If you are visiting the city as part of a day trip from Florence or somewhere else, here are some lunchtime recommendations in Bologna especially if you’re craving one of the aforementioned pastas.
NB: Some of these spots are closed on Mondays and Sundays and it’s always a good idea to book ahead to avoid disappointment.
Tagliatelle al ragu at Grassilli. Photo credit: Grasilli Facebook
Grassilli
This vintage restaurant sports Parisian vibes with the attitude to match. Think a cozy cabin atmosphere spackled in old-timey photos of notable opera icons like Pavarotti, gourmet versions of cotoletta (like mortadella in lieu of prosciutto served in a buttery Parmigiano fondue), soup du jour, French cheese plates and fine wine.
Come for the pasta (including some of the best tagliatelle in ragù in town), but save room for the desserts like their famous tarte tartin.
Address: Via dal Luzzo, 3/d, closed Wednesday and Sunday.
Website: www.facebook.com/grassilli
Mercato delle Erbe (Noi, specifically)
Mercato delle Erbe is a produce market and food hall that encompasses delis, pizzerias, charcuterie bars, a few restaurant outposts. Located in one of the corners devoted to restaurants, Noi (which also has a location on Via dei Fornaciai) is a prime choice for crescentine fritte: fried, lightly salted dough pillows that pair with Bologna’s fresh, soft squacquerone cheese and thinly sliced cured meats.
Come here for the crescentine, but also the polpette (meatballs), from traditional to more fanciful options, like cold canape-style mortadella polpette coated in pistachio.
Address: Via S. Gervasio, 3, open seven days.
Website: www.polpetteecrescentine.com
Tucking in on some salumi at La Grassa Food Tour.
Mercato Quadrilatero
In the food loving city of Bologna, their most historic market is the Quadrilatero, a central hub of narrow streets full of merchants, food mongers and artisans that dates back to before the 11th century. Today it showcases the region’s kaleidoscope of seasonal produce, specialty foods plus historic cellars and bars.
Come for Zerocinquantino for fast casual plates of Bologna’s iconic pastas, from lasagna to tagliatelle al ragù and cheese-stuffed tortelloni. Or head to La Vecchia Malga for a plate of local cured meats from around the Emilia-Romagna region, such as culatello, mortadella, prosciutto di parma, and salame rosa.
Address: Quadrilatero. Check opening times for individual stores and restaurants.
Websites: 051.it and vecchiamalga.com
Curious Appetite’s La Grassa Food Tour of Bologna
Bologna is more than mortadella, but the mortadella is also very very good. Especially where we stop to savor some of Italy’s best fresh pasta, cured meats, Parmesan cheese (parmigiano-reggiano), aged balsamic vinegars from nearby Modena, palate refreshing fizzy wines and more on our Lonely Planet-approved La Grassa Food Tour.
Over three hours, our bonafide Bologna expert shares an in-depth overview of the ER’s regional food, diving deep into Bolognese culture while supporting local food heroes, historical guides and small businesses.
Come for the behind-the-scenes of a fresh pasta laboratory where Bologna's iconic pastas are made by skilled sfogline pasta masters, but also for the pasta tasting of classics like meat-filled tortellini or ricotta-filled tortelloni with wine.
Website: curiousappetitetravel.com/bologna-food-tour
The La Grassa tour is available every day, making it perfect for Sundays and Mondays in particular, when a lot of Bologna’s restaurants are closed.
Vodka sauce pasta at CasaMerlò. Photo credit: CasaMerlò
All'Osteria Bottega
This address is no secret to dining lists, but it earns mixed approval from locals, based mostly on cost. Ultimately, though, this might be Bologna’s most reliable restaurant in terms of food quality, consistency, service, and wine list. Osteria Bottega manages to execute a wide range of traditional Bolognese fare such as the game-heavy main courses like pigeon and squab in a wine reduction and hand-pressed rigatoni with hand-cut meats and ovarine (an unlaid chicken egg).
Come here for its cured meat selection from fine producers. The culatello from Antica Corte Pallavicina, aged in a 700-year-old cellar, and coppa di testa (Italy’s answer to head cheese), homemade by Daniele are particularly good.
Address: Via Santa Caterina, 51, closed Sunday and Monday.
Website: www.facebook.com/allaosteriabottega
CasaMerlò
From its bold and bright pop-inspired interior to its excellent service, CasaMerlò never disappoints. Owners Dario Picchiotti and Francesco Tonelli mix the classics like a solid tagliatelle al ragu’ with playful modern dishes like Il Poldino, an intriguing hamburger made from everything you’d expect to find in a Bolognese tortellini (mortadella, prosciutto, pork loin, Parmigiano-reggiano and nutmeg).
Come for vintage wildcards like vodka sauce pasta made with fun wheel-shaped “ruote” pasta from prized dry pasta brand Benedetto Cavalieri. A real ‘80s throwback.
Address: Via de' Gombruti, 2d. Open seven days.
Website: www.casamerlo.it/trattoria
Out the front of Drogheria della Rosa. Photo credit: Drogheria della Rosa Facebook
Drogheria della Rosa
Drogheria della Rosa maintains the appearance of its old apothecary roots with wall to wall shelves of antique glasses, wine bottles and jars. There’s also always a big bunch of roses on the counter at the entrance - an ode to the restaurant’s name.
Chef/owner Emanuele Addone dishes out warm hospitality and down-to-earth Bolognese cooking, with an emphasis on market-fresh ingredients. A meal usually begins with a plate of prosciutto and a glass of prosecco before your server walks you through the day’s offerings with wines to match.
Come for the dainty handmade tortellini which are stuffed with everything from zucchini blossoms to eggplant puree to stracchino cheese and mortadella, depending on the season.
Address: Via Cartoleria 10, closed Monday.
Website: drogheriadellarosa.it/en
