One of the most distinctive traits of Milanese cuisine is its richness – and not just in terms of substance, but also in its ingredients. As the capital of Italy's pulsating economic heart, it’s rather fitting that the gorgeous golden risotto known as Risotto alla Milanese features the world’s most expensive spice, saffron, which costs more than gold in weight.
Legend suggests saffron rice dates back to 1574 when Valerio of Flanders, a Flemish glassmaker, used saffron to paint the stained-glass windows of Milan's Duomo. Left with a surplus of the spice, his assistant nabbed a pitch and added it to the risotto at his boss’s daughter’s wedding. What started as a prank - or some say, a way to derail the wedding - ended in triumph as all the guests loved the risotto color and flavor.
The dish has of course evolved over time, and, like most recipes, it holds different meanings for different people. But there are a few steadfast rules. The first concerns the rice. Risotto alla Milanese should only ever be made with Carnaroli rice.
It might seem strange that a pasta-loving country such as Italy would champion a rice dish, but Northern Italy, particularly the Lombardy region and the Pianura Padana plain, is renowned for its rice production, where it has been harvested since the 13th century after arriving on Italian shores via the Moors.
In the so-called “rice bowl of Italy,” rice grows easily thanks to higher humidity, lots of water, and a flat landscape, and Carnaroli is the preferred variety for making Risotto alla Milanese, differing from the more common arborio rice due to its higher starch content and firmer texture, as well as having a longer grain.
The second rule is an abundant use of butter. Again, you think Italy, you think EVOO, but not in the north where constant mixing with Austrians and Germans has bred a unique love of butter in the locals. Butter is essential for achieving the must have ‘mantecatura’ or rich creamy texture for which the Risotto alla Milanese is known. Huge quantities are added to the rice along with a healthy heaping of parmesan just before serving, which is delicious, but also dangerous. Wait too long to serve or eat this delicious dish and it’ll turn into gluey, gummy gunk with the consistency of wallpaper.
With that in mind, expect to wait for your Risotto alla Milanese. This is not a dish to be ordered if you’re in a rush. The best and most authentic spots - a.k.a, the ones on this list - make their risotto to order to avoid the tragedy mentioned above. They also serve it - optionally, but we think ideally - with a huge chunk of ossobuco. Lovingly braised veal shanks cooked in wine and stock over many hours, it’s either served alongside or on top of your risotto. Don’t skip the midollo or bone marrow. While it might seem a little off putting, this creamy bite has the consistency of butter with a nutty, umami flavor.
Mouth watering? Along with our recommendations for the best Risotto alla Milanese in Milan, check out our Insider’s Milan Food Tour where we taste creative uses for risotto such as riso al salto or contact us for a custom themed culinary walk!
The risotto with ossobuco at Trattoria Masuelli San Marco
Trattoria Masuelli San Marco
Far from the hectic scene in the center of town, you can always find inner culinary peace in this classic trattoria still managed — with enviable stamina — by the Masuelli family. Founded in 1921, this restaurant has been serving some of the best classical Milanese cuisine the city has to offer for close to a century.
Its risotto is prepared to order, so be prepared to wait and while some may quibble that the portion size is too small, the flavor is rich and the saffron super fragrant, so you don’t need a heaping helping. Order with or without ossobuco.
Address: Viale Umbria, 80, closed Monday.
Website: menu.masuellitrattoria.com
Pane al Pane Vino al Vino (check out our video review)
A true old school Milanese trattoria, Pale al Pane Vino al Vino is affordable and always packed, so be sure to book ahead. The fare here is unfussy and served in abundant portions with family-style conviviality and plenty of cheer.
Its risotto is super creamy and hearty - stick the ribs sort of stuff. Order with a bottle or two of the house wine and you can’t go wrong.
Address: Via Alessandro Tadino, 48, closed Sunday and Monday
Website: https://www.panealpanevinoalvino.it/
Risotto and other traditional Milanese dishes at Al Matarel.
Al Matarel
Another traditional trattoria, Al Matarel has been run by the affable Nonna Elide since 1962. Its pride and joy is its osso buco - a secret family recipe that hasn’t changed with the generations and is roasted and broiled for more than three hours before being served with a heaping of saffron risotto.
Melt in the mouth tender and surrounded by a sea of buttery rice, this dish should always - as the restaurant’s owners recommend - be followed by a walk through Milan’s historic centre and a glass of good grappa (a strong Italian liquor made from distilled grapes).
Address: Via Laura Solera Mantegazza, 5, open 7 days
Website: almatarel.it
Ratana
If you are looking for a more modern, fine dining take on the Risotto alla Milanese, Ratana is for you… as long as you book FAR in advance. This Michelin-rated outfit in a converted railway building places top quality ingredients front and centre in its tradition-meets-contemporary menu.
Its signature risotto is enough for four thanks to a hefty helping of ossobuco and served with a bright and pungent gremolada (parsley and anchovy sauce).
Address: Via Gaetano de Castillia, 28, open 7 days.
Website: ratana.it
Beetroot risotto at Risoelatte
Risoelatte Duomo
With a two locations spotted across Milan, Risoelatte is instantly recognizable by its 1960s decor and kitsch jukebox tunes. But don’t let the decor fool you, the menu is anything but diner burgers and milkshakes.
The restaurant is actually named after another famous northern Italian dish that is literally translated to rice and milk (riso e latte). In this dish, short grain rice is cooked in full fat milk for hours before additional ingredients and flavors are added - anything from speck (cured, lightly smoked ham) to gorgonzola and beetroot. It’s creamy, rich and rice pudding-like - well worth a try if you need a break from saffron laced Risotto alla Milanese.
Address: Via Manfredo Camperio, 6, open 7 days.
Website: risoelatte.com
Antica Trattoria della Pesa
This restaurant could easily pass as an antique shop with its copper pots on the walls and decorative plates - a decor that feels all the more fitting when you learn that Antica Trattoria della Pesa first opened its doors in 1880.
The risotto here is served without fanfare, but is satisfying and well priced. If you aren’t all riced out at this stage, I recommend also trying the risotto al salto. This classic Milanese dish is made with yesterday’s risotto, which is fried in butter until crispy and golden.
Address: Viale Pasubio 10, closed Sunday.
Website: anticatrattoriadellapesa.com
Besides the risotto, make sure you get a cheese plate at Locanda del Menarost
Locanda del Menarost
With its beautiful outdoor seating, Locanda del Menarost sits on a quiet street in the Delle Regioni area with wooden tables and chairs and shelves filled with wine bottles on the walls. Lombard fare is its bread and butter - in particular the grand mixed bollito (boiled beef and veal) served with mustard and green sauce and some very fine platters of locally sourced cheese.
Some might quibble about the size of the midollo (bone marrow) on the ossobuco, but the tender and flavorful veal and beautifully scented rice more than make up for it.
Address: Via Giuseppe Compagnoni, 24. Open seven days.
Website: menarost.it
Osteria Tajoli
A stone’s throw from Fondazione Prada, Osteria Tajoli is the perfect spot for a bite to eat after a day of gallery wandering. It’s styled after a "listeria" - a place serving simple wine and cheap food from the Middle Ages - but this one has a ‘70,’80s and ‘90s vibe with super bright walls and plenty of witty signs.
Its risotto is served promptly and in a good-sized portion. Diners rave about the Cotoletta alla Milanese here, which is the size of an elephant’s ear - a true compliment in Milan. In 2024, the team behind Tajoli opened up a bar next door where you can enjoy breakfast and tapas with a great wine list that changes every 1-2 weeks.
Address: Via Brembo, 11
Website: instagram.com/osteria_tajoli
BONUS: Giannasi (Check out our video review)
Dubbed Milan’s answer to KFC, Giannasi has been dishing up takeaway roast chicken and stuffed fried stuff since 1967. Come here for a heaping slab of timballo, which sandwiches ham and mozzarella between two thick slices of baked risotto.
Address: Piazza Bruno Buozzi, 2, open 7 days.
Website: https://www.giannasi1967.com/
