Mornings in Santo Spirito
Ciao from the cool kids block: Santo Spirito!
This piece of Florence is no longer a closely guarded local secret, but the Oltrano or ‘other side of the Arno river’ still feels removed from the overwhelming hustle and bustle of the city’s old town heart.
Comparatively, the pace is more relaxed, with more artsy shops. less tacky souvenirs and the restaurants and bars are a whole heap more exciting, authentic and delicious.
Santo Spirito (one of the micro-neighborhoods of the Oltrarno) is one of Florence’s most characteristic and lively squares.
Sundays are dedicated to handicraft and organic markets and summers to concerts and outdoors shows perfect for whiling away the day, aperitivo of choice in hand.
The (micro) neighborhood blossomed around the Piazza Santo Spirito and its namesake basilica, which was built in 1252 by Augustinian friars. Don’t let the unassuming yellow facade put you off.
This church was the scene of rebellions, political assassinations, fire and uprisings throughout the 14th century. After it burned to the ground, it was redesigned by Filippo Brunelleschi, of Florence’s unmissable Duomo fame, in 1428 and has a wooden crucifix by Michelangelo as well as works by Filippino Lippi, Sansovino, Orcagna, Giuliano da San Gallo.
If you love Santo Spirito, I recommend checking out some of Florence’s other microquarters, including San Frediano, Piazza Tasso and San Niccolo’. But a word of warning.
As mentioned up top, Santo Spirito is not a secret. If you want to sit in the piazza and sip spritzes, any bar will will do, but you’ll be surrounded by a mix of locals, students and visitors.
If you want to really experience the neighborhood, you’ll have to wander a little deeper and a little further afield and bookmark this curated list of restaurants and bars in Santo Spirito.
Wines and snacks at Il Santino. Photo credit: Il Santo Bevitore Facebook
Bars
Rasputin
This secret bar is exactly what you imagine. Low lights and vintage decor in an homage to the speakeasy culture or the sort of locale its namesake Russian mage would have loved - red walls, sloping brick ceilings, antique carpets and candelabra.
Come here for the secrecy and the strong classic cocktails with a thoughtful twist. Its bar boasts more than 300 labels - a third of which are whiskey. So consider starting with an Old Fashioned.
Address: Somewhere in Santo Spirito. You’ll find it.
Website: www.rasputinsecretbar.com
Il Santino
This small wine bar loved by locals has an amazing wine selection packed with Italy’s best natural and artisanal wines and beers. There are only four small tables, plus some high stools around the bar, but drinkers spill happily onto the sidewalk on anything but the chilliest days.
Come here for the wines for sure, but also the mozzarella and n’duja toast and charcuterie platters. Il Santino is the little sister of the Santo Bevitore restaurant, so the food is top notch.
Address: Via Santo Spirito 60
Website: www.instagram.com/ilsantobevitorefi
The Amortentia at Mad Souls and Spirits. Photo credit: Mad Souls and Spirits Facebook.
Loggia Roofbar
Nestled inside the Hotel Palazzo Guadagni, the Loggia Roofbar is your quintessential hotel bar serving up light snacks and classic cocktails. But book in advance or don’t bother. Also, this is not the place for a quick sip before dinner. Service is slow, so be prepared to linger. Luckily the view is so spectacular, you’ll have plenty to keep yourself entertained.
Come for the views, especially at sunset. The Loggia Spritz and Gold Negroni are the bar’s signature drinks, which sound super cheesy, but the ginger beer in the former and gentian (a type of violet) and mint in the latter are unusual touches.
Address: Piazza Santo Spirito 9
Website: www.palazzoguadagni.com
Mad Souls and Spirits
A tongue-in-cheek dive bar with craft cocktails to match, Mad Souls and Spirits has traded trendy interior design for an informal but welcoming atmosphere and super unusual drinks with odd names. Take a recent concoction dubbed Amortentia, which has gin, strawberry, habanero and lime, banana-infused bitters and balsamic aperitif.
Come for the specials of the day and for the truly affordable cocktails, which are completely unexpected in a bar ranked 477 on the World’s Top 500 Bars list.
Address: Borgo S. Frediano, 36
Website: www.instagram.com/mad_soulsandspirits
Scenes from our Aperitivo Tour of Florence. Photo credit: Curious Appetite.
Babae
Thanks to Stanley Tucci and his ilk, wine windows are one of the hottest searched attractions in Florence. The wine windows when chosen at random are also serial purveyors of terrible spritzes and the bane of anyone who lives or works on the same street. Babae is an exception to this rule.
Skip the wine door, the street full of tourists with selfie sticks, the large generic tour groups and hang out inside. Their wines are surprisingly drinkable, but if you’re looking for cocktails, they also have a well prepared list of your classic characters and delicious food.
Across the street is home to their new fast casual bakery, which have excellent panini.
Address: Via Santo Spirito, 21
Website: https://babae.superbexperience.com/
Curious Appetite Aperitivo and Buchette Tours
Can’t decide on where to drink? We run two Florence food & drink tours that takes the guesswork out of your bar runs.
Our Aperitivo Tour hits up a few different and unique locales (some in the Oltrarno not listed on this guide) as a fabulous intro to a very Italian tradition. Our Aperitivo tour in Florence promises delight for fellow negroni lovers and enthusiasts.
We experience a mix of wine tasting and craft cocktails with curated nibbles and small plates. Over three hours, drink, eat and soak in the local culture with gusto.
While if you’re looking for something a little more historical, try our Afternoon Gourmet Wine Window Crawl.
Over this three-hour city specialized food and wine tour, you’ll be led by an expert with an art history and sommelier background to learn about the centuries of Florentine wine culture, architectural gems, quality Italian wines along with a varied selection of local gourmet foods.
Info & booking: www.curiousappetitetravel.com/aperitivo-tour-in-florence and www.curiousappetitetravel.com/buchette-wine-tour-florence
Chianti and gnocchi at Angiolino ai 13 Arrosti. Photo credit: Angiolino ai 13 Arrosti Facebook
Restaurants
Il Santo Bevitore
Don’t let the rustic interiors and wooden tables of Il Santo Bevitore fool you. This isn’t your run of the mill osteria serving just Florentine steak and tripe. Depending on the season and the whims of the kitchen, you can find everything from tempura to creme brulee spiked with star anise on the day’s menu. That is not to say, of course, that this isn’t Tuscan cooking. It is, but with a creative and innovative twist.
Come for the chicken liver terrine and the pappa al pomodoro, if you’re feeling nostalgic.
Address: Via Santo Spirito 64
Website: www.ilsantobevitore.com
Angiolino ai 13 Arrosti
This is the spot for a traditional Tuscan meal. Appearing before your eyes like something out of a Franco Zeffirelli film - checked tablecloths and all - Angiolino’s is an Italian institution, beloved for its simple, but hearty dishes, saucy pastas, succulent steaks, classic red wines and the complimentary shots of limoncello at the end of the meal.
They have a bar which is perfect for solo diners, in our opinion.
Come for the roasts - they are after all, this restaurant’s namesake (the porchetta is particularly good) - and the zuppa lucchese (an unctuous bean stew from Lucca).
Address: Via Santo Spirito 36
Website: www.trattoriaangiolino.com
Homemade kefir with a rack of lamb at Cuculia. Photo credit: Cuculia Ristorante Libreria Facebook
I' Raddi in Santo Spirito
Watching the world go by, glass of wine in one hand, panino in the other is the order of the day at I’Raddi. They have 2 locations and both are worthy of your caloric intake. Run by the Outran family, whose members are famous for playing calcio storico - a old school sport that mixes soccer and MMFA fighting, this eatery off the Santo Spirito square is an off-shoot of their trattoria and is the go-to spot for prix fixe lunch specials that include peposo (a slow-cooked peppery beef and red wine stew) and the aforementioned panini.
Come for the panino con lampredotto and its santo spirito (a sandwich stuffed with ham, pecorino cheese and roasted eggplant).
2 locations: Panini shack/fast casual eatery: Via dei Michelozzi 19, Flagship Trattoria: Via Ardiglione 47
Website: www.trattoriairaddi.it
Osteria Tripperia Il Magazzino
While not technically in Santo Spirito but very much Oltrarno- Il Magazzino makes the list because we love it! It also happens to be Florence’s very first restaurant based in offal or tripperia. Florence is famous for her offal dishes (especially lampredotto) and this is hands down the best place to sample them. If you’re feeling squeamish, opt for the fried tripe meatballs or skip the guts entirely and order the offal-free pastas epecially their gnocchi or pici, but if you’re ok with offal, be brave and try the tempura sushi, lampredotto stuffed ravioli or the tongue carpaccio.
Osteria Tripperia Il Magazzino: Google maps listing
Cuculia
Chef Oliver Betancourt left Venezuela to train in well-known restaurants in France, Spain and Italy before settling down in 2013 to open Cuculia in Florence - an elegant and well-appointed restaurant with international flair.
Expect colorful, produce-forward dishes that don’t shy away from ingredients like homemade seitan with BBQ grapefruit sauce as well as ode to Italy’s culinary landscape like Neapolitan beef and pork ragu and Carnaroli risotto with wild herbs.
Address: Via dei Serragli 3
Website: www.cuculia.it
Scenes from our Curious Appetite Progressive Dining Crawl Photo credit: Curious Appetite
Trattoria La Casalinga
A restaurant whose name literally translates to the ‘housewife’ was never going to disappoint in its family-friendly fare. Any time you see “cucina casalinga” expect homey traditional food the way nonna lovingly stewed over them.
All the classics are here - from ribollita (a rich vegetable soup) to pasta e fagioli (pasta and white beans) and baccala’ alla livornese con ceci (Livorno-style salted cod with chickpeas) - served in big portions but with fairly reasonable price tags.
Come for the daily specials, which are seasonal and can include fried artichokes, truffles and porcini mushrooms, depending on when you visit, and oddly, the tiramisu, which is a perpetual fan favorite.
Address: Via dei Michelozzi 9
Website: www.trattorialacasalinga.it
Curious Appetite Progressive Dining Crawl
You could spent hours researching the best spot to eat in Florence or you could join us on our Progressive Dining Crawl. Our dinner crawl involves four dining stops at unique locations in tucked away corners throughout town to experience Firenze’s allure in-between aperitivo, fresh pasta primi, succulent meat mains and some of the best gelato you’ll be dreaming of for years.
While biased, this food tour in Florence is a great way to cover a lot of ground, get orientated with key landmarks, savor in delicious Tuscan foods and learn their historic origins, plus meet fellow food loving travelers in a small group format (private tour options available, too)
Come for the food-writer approved addresses, but also the vino paired along the way from bubbles, still bianchi and rosati and tips (like how to watch out for fake gelato) for the rest of your trip.
Website: www.curiousappetitetravel.com/dinner-crawl-in-florence
Marina di Santo Spirito
Cards on the table: Florence isn’t exactly a seafood city. It’s more of a meat and three veg city with traditional dishes that are robust and require a nap straight afterwards, but if you are craving pesce, look no further than Marino di Santo Spirito. This old carpentry shop turned seafood restaurant serves up tasty raw and cooked dishes that are fresh and flavorful.
Come for the spaghetti alle vongole, sea urchin pasta and crudo (raw) platters, and the evening guitar concert, performed at the end of service each night by the restaurant’s owner Marina.
Address: Via Maffia 1
Website: www.marinadisantospirito.it
