The Florentines know how to enjoy life. They’ve known so for over 2000 years and they consider it as nothing less than their birthright. After all, circa 60 B.C., Roman soldiers named the city Florentia, thought to mean “may she flourish.” And flourish did she… with mind boggling sculptures, architecture and masterpieces that attracts millions of visitors annually to awe at (well, 2020 being an exception).
But Florence is more than just a pretty postcard panorama. There is no better city in the world to walk around in, to get lost in, to return to again and again. An aimless passeggiata (stroll) or pointless lingering at a wine bar, is what the Italians call “dolce far niente,” the sweetness of doing nothing. And if there is one place where doing nothing may well be a national pastime, it’s in the modern, bountiful, fascinating, energetic, historical city of Florence.
With that in mind, here are our top recommendations on where to stay in Florence (written in 2021)
The Plaza Hotel Lucchesi. Photo courtesy of its Facebook page.
Plaza Hotel Lucchesi
One of the first hotels to be opened in Florence, the Plaza Hotel Lucchesi has been serving up breathtaking views of the Arno River and Piazza Santa Croce since 1860! And it must have been quite the spot to be seen as exactly 30 years after opening its doors, Pension Lucchesi (as it was known then) hosted none other than the King of Italy Umberto I and his family, with owners and namesake, Demetrio and Emilia Lucchesi, marking the occasion with a fireworks display.
While the place has undergone more than its fair share of renovations since royalty graced its halls, Plaza Hotel Lucchesi is still one of Florence’s most sought-after hotels, thanks primarily to its better-than-good location downtime and its aforementioned view.
It was during its last renovations that the hotel added a rooftop pool and bar - the latter most definitely worth a visit even if you’re not lucky enough to be staying there. Read more about my love for the hotel’s rooftop bar here.
As for other famous guests? Throughout the decades, this spot has welcomed D.H Lawrence, Domenico Modugno of Volare fame, Swedish actress Anita Ekberg and more recently Céline Dion, David Byrne of Talking Heads and the one and only Mark Hamill.
Villa San Michele in Fiesole
While not as famous as the Plaza Hotel Lucchesi, Villa San Michele is just as illustrious. Nestled in the Fiesole hills, this former medieval monastery perfectly captures the romance of Florence. The 45-room villa, which also boasts a cooking school and heated open-air pool, has the most enviable views of the city - that is, if you can drag your eyes away from it’s own not-too-shabby gardens and facade, which art buffs might be quick to notice is attributed to David’s very own creator, Mr Michelangelo.
Villa San Michele is also a one-stop-shop when it comes to luxury dining. In the hands of Executive Chef Alessandro Cozzolino, Ristorante La Loggia offers up an avant-garde take on beloved Tuscan dishes from local wild boar to smoked rabbit lasagnetta at dinner, while Ristorante Villa San Michele and Pizzeria Villa San Michele are on hand for a slightly more casual, but no less delicious lunch. Its bar Il Chiostrino (named after its literal location, The Cloisters) is just as fine, especially after one or two of its signature cocktail, the Chartreuse Swizzle.
But if you’re still itching to get among the thick of things in Florence, don’t stress, the hotel organises regular free shuttles to and from the city.
25hours Hotel Piazza San Paolino. Photo courtesy of its Facebook page.
25hours Hotel Piazza San Paolino
Dubbing itself “cooler than gelato”, New Hotel 25hours first Italian hub opened its doors in Piazza San Paolino in September 2021, a hop and a skip from Santa Maria Novella station.
Designed by Milan-based designer Paola Navone and her team, the hotel, whose core extends from a monastery next to the eponymous church of San Paolino, was inspired by Dante’s Divine Comedy and is brimming with light-hearted allusions to this legendary work. Scenes from Hell and Paradise are playfully interspersed throughout the rooms, offering an illuminating tour through Dante’s world of virtues and vices.
Its major selling point, however, is its magnificent glass domed Restaurant San Paolino, which features a courtyard garden and a classic Negroni bar. Serving up the best produce from across the country, the restaurant’s menu is seasonal, with a few dishes from Navone’s personal recipe collection thrown in for good measure. Guests perusing the wine list will find exclusively curated recommendations from choice wineries in Tuscany.
Hotel Calimala
Set up in a landmark 19th-century building in the city’s Centro Storico quarter, Hotel Calimala was restored by the architect Alex Meitlis (of Ottolenghi and Tel Aviv’s Quattro & Messa fame).
Meitlis’ distressed stone façade and etched sgraffito completely reimagine what you’d expect from a Florentine hotel, with the best rooms in the house - the corner suites - featuring a backdrop of original stonework and oak window shutters on an eclectic moodboard of burnt orange bed bases and mirrored panels.
The public spaces, meanwhile, pick up the eclectic note with a swathe of paintings and photography by Young Turks such as Mosh Kashi and Carmel Ilan.
But it’s the hotel’s fifth, sixth and seventh floors, which are given over to Angel – a generous spread of restaurant, bars and lounges boating fused notes of Mediterranean and Italian flavours from Head Chef Alberto Bergami - that really draw the crowds. Anchored by an outdoor plunge pool, the magnificent three-story floral garden dining mecca is the place to see and be seen in Florence.
Antelux Apartments by Ardium. Photo credit: Alessio Chao
Antelux Studio
Designed by Peruvian-American Danella Lucioni, this collection of independent, private apartments are housed in a palazzo in Piazza Duomo. The brand went viral with its ‘Window to the Duomo’ - a studio space with the perfect Duomo view.
We recommend Antelux, a selection of two-bedroom apartments, all of which stand out for their bright and bubbly interiors, and, it goes without saying, incredible views of Florence’s most famous piazza. Within contains the closest balcony to the baptistery and the only balcony in the city center with an unobstructed view the entire front façade of the famous Florence Cathedral and including the Cupola (Duomo).
Soprarno Suites
Thirteen individually-designed rooms tucked away in the centre of Florence’s cool Oltrarno district, Soprano Suites are just minutes from the Ponte Vecchio and Pitti Palace. Their biggest claim to fame is one of their artists and owners - Betty Soldi - Florentine native, illustrator and the author of Inkspired, a book about the beauty of how handwriting makes you feel.
Soldi teamed up with fellow natives Francesco Maestrelli and Matteo Perduca to fill each space of the 16th-century palazzo with a unique style of eclectic antique and salvaged furniture and bespoke works of art. Original ceiling frescoes and in-room bathtubs complete the suites in subtle nods to the Italianate style.
To quote Vogue Living: “Make sure to look up — both outside and in, as rooms overlook gorgeous buildings and house incredible frescos within their own four walls”.
The royal suite at Sina Villa Medici. Photo courtesy of its Instagram page.
Sina Villa Medici
With its pretty garden and outdoor pool, Sina Villa Medici is often described as a tranquil haven, far from the madding crowd. It’s also located Oltrarno - literally on the other side of the Arno - but it’s still only two blocks to the river, where you can stroll down to the Ponte Vecchio. In exchange for its less-than-famous location, Sina Villa Medici offers up some of the city’s best eats within touching distance. I’ve often sung the praises of this part of the city. Nearby Borgo Ognissanti is lined with cafés, restaurants and eateries that are beloved by locals and definitely worth a visit. Read more about the best places to eat in Florence here.
As for the hotel itself, it’s anything but lacking. The Sina Villa Medici is famous for hosting aristocrats and celebrities, from the Shah of Persia to Luciano Pavarotti, and exudes all the eclectic elegance of the Belle Époque. It’s an oasis in summer months, with its lovely garden fragrant with jasmine and sinuous outdoor pool, while its 19th-century building has recently been spruced up in contemporary-classic style.
Palazzo San Niccolo'
The only mid-century inspired hotel to make the list, Palazzo San Niccolò is also in the heart of the Oltrarno neighbourhood, a short walk from Forte Belvedere, Piazzale Michelangelo and the new restored Poggi fountain. San Niccolò - its namesake - is Florence’ oldest neighbourhood and its restaurants, bars and artisan shops – street artist Clet Abraham has his atelier here – are dear to locals.
The hotel’s interiors were carefully restored over half a decade by two Italian friends who discovered the abandoned apartment building and fell in love with its structure, location and secret garden. Soft colours and a blend of smooth contemporary design are paired with a warmth of selected vintage pieces including lamps from one of the owner’s ‘70s and ‘80s collection.
The dining room at one of the hotels in the Lungarno Collection. Photo courtesy of its Instagram page.
Lungarno Collection
If Twiggy was a hotel chain, she’d be the Lungarno. Florence’s most fashionista of accomodations, this collection is the fruit of one of the country’s best known clothing dynasties - the Ferragamo family.
Just steps from the Ponte Vecchio, you'll find the Gallery Hotel Art - the most famous of the six properties in the Lungarno Collection. The Ferragamo footprint runs through all the hotels - five in Florence and one in Rome - from the branded beauty products in every bathroom to the Picasso and Caravaggio paintings direct from the family's private collection.
But it’s the Gallery Hotel Art that remains the jewel in this empire’s crown. First opened in 1999, the aesthetic throughout is light, white and airy with a contemporary collection throughout that features household names like Helmut Newton, David Lachapelle and Steven Klein. The hotel's sense of fun and buoyant energy is anchored by the lively Fusion Bar and Restaurant - one of the few places in the city serving sushi with a robust list of extravagant cocktails.
