Carnevale treats in Florence. Photo: Coral Sisk.
Italy’s Carnival or Carnevale is a farewell to winter as well as one big, final party before the somber days of Lent set in.
The festivities date back to Rome’s Saturnalia, but the history of the city with which it’s most associated is more recent. Venice’s Carnevale dates back to 1094, when the Doge Vitale Falier first mentioned the word “carnevale” in a document describing public amusements. In 1162 the Republic of Venice had defeated Ulrico, Patriarch of Aquileia, and to celebrate, slaughtered a bull and twelve pigs in Piazza San Marco. This celebration was around Shrove Tuesday and so popular, it continued to be held year after year.
That being said, the Carnevale di Venezia wasn’t officially recorded until 1268. The following year, the Senate declared the day before Lent (Shrove Tuesday) a public holiday. These days, Venice’s Carnevale is Italy’s biggest and best known celebration, but did you know there is plenty to be had in other parts of the country as well?
In this guide, we take you through the history of Carnival in Italy, Carnevale in Florence, as well as what to see, do and eat in Florence during Carnival.
P.S. Want to focus on all the culinary delicacies found in Florence during carnival? Check our our Historic Food Lover’s Tour and/or our Street Food Market Walk!
Costumes in Florence. Photo: Lunar Sea Art.
What is Carnevale like in Florence?
In the 15th century, Carnevale in Florence was cemented by statesman and all-around Renaissance patron Lorenzo de’ Medici. He penned the famous Carnevale anthem Il Trionfo di Bacco e Arianna: “Chi vuol esser lieto, sia: di doman non c’è certezza” (“Who wants to be happy, should be happy today: there’s no certainty in the future”) and introduced trionfi, allegorical carts made of wood and jute, that became central to the celebrations, uniting nobles and commoners in the pre-Lenten rite.
But it wasn’t until the 18th century that Florence adopted what is its most famous Carnevale tradition – masks. It was its Lorena rulers who encouraged the locals to don a mask and gather in Santa Croce for a little pre-game party before heading off to a ball hosted in one of the sumptuous noble’s or foreign diplomat’s private residences.
The Gran Galà in Maschera is still held today in the Salone dei Cinquecento of Palazzo Vecchio. The sold-out event never fails to bring celebrities and dignitaries to city dressed to the nines, and is scheduled in 2024 for Saturday January 27.
For us plebs, the fun really begins on Sunday January 28 with the highly anticipated annual parade through the city centre, starting from Santa Maria Novella at 3pm. This parade is free to join for anyone in costume, with participation badges available to collect on the day on the basilica side of piazza Santa Maria Novella.
Meanwhile, music and entertainment in piazza della Signoria will start from 3pm, where the parade will finish, and a grand jury will issue prizes for the best costumes on display.
Stenterello is Florence’s Carnevale mascot.
Meet Stenterello
It was around the time of the Lorena that the actor Luigi del Buono coined Stenterello, the official mascot of Florence’s Carnevale. Thin and ironic, he is a representation of the Florentine spirit, reflecting the resilience and humor of its people in the face of adversity. It is said that the author was inspired by a beggar who was often seen under a tabernacle on via della Scala and for expressions, instead, the Assistant of his Barber.
In via Borgo Ognissanti 4 is a plaque that commemorates the birth of this mask. It reads: "In this Palace Louis Del Buono (1751 – 1832) created the form of Stenterello, popular Fiorentino prankster, mocked and quick-witted.”
More than two centuries later, he remains a fan favorite, so if you’re in Florence for Carnevale, keep an eye out for him. He’s known for his multicoloured stockings, which are always pulled up to the knee and his passion for wine. He’s also famous for his love of coin-sized pancakes scented with lemon and sweets made with Malaga grapes!
Sweet treats from Florence’s bakeries. Photo: Coral Sisk.
What to eat during Carnevale in Florence
Like most Italian traditions, food plays a central role in Carnevale. After all, the word Carnevale derives from the Latin phrase carne levare, to put away meat. Sugar and fat were also high on the list of forbidden culinary staples, so there are plenty of traditional Italian sweets whose recipes we owe to the holiday. Every region in Italy has its own Carnevale snacks from Venice’s frittelle donuts filled with Chantilly creme or zabaione, a heady concoction made from eggs, sugar and alcohol to the ubiquitous cenci – strands of thin pastry fried and dusted in icing sugar.
In Florence, the undisputed Carnevale queen is the Schiacciata alla Fiorentina. Its origins are lost in the mists of time, but it was mentioned by the well-known 19th century gastronome Pellegrino Artusi, when it was nicknamed "schiacciata delle Murate" in honor of the nuns who made it in Santa Verdiana. When this convent became an infamous prison, the cake continued to be served... as the final portion of the last meal of the condemned! It’s also sometimes called the “Stiacciata Unta” or the ‘greasy’ schiacciata in ode to its original fat – pork lard. Carnevale always falls in the period when the pig is traditionally slaughtered, so lard was there, ready to be used. Originally nonnas would make the schiacciata with leftover bread dough, enriched with just lard and oranges and baked in a wood oven.
These days, the Schiacciata alla Fiorentina is made with butter or EVOO and sits somewhere between a cake and a yeasted bread, made even more special by adding sugar, vanilla and oranges. In the past, oranges, or better yet, bergamots, were considered a luxury Christmas treat, so just imagine how special and decadent it was to use oranges in this cake.
Florence’s famous Schiacciata alla Fiorentina. Photo: Coral Sisk.
Where to get the best Schiacciata alla Fiorentina in Florence
During Carnevale, Schiacciata alla Fiorentina appears in every bakery, pastry shop and bar in Florence. There is even a real competition aiming to nominate the best. More often than not, this accolade goes to Giorgio, the pastry shop on Via Duccio di Buoninsegna. Dusted with icing sugar with the Florence lily on the surface, Giorgio makes both plain schiacciatas and more luxurious versions filled with whipped cream, chocolate or custard.
Personally, I’m partial to the Schiacciata alla Fiorentina at Gilli. With a history that dates back to 1733, this Via Roma cafe is Florence’s oldest. Their schiacciata, leavened and flavored with orange and strictly no more than 1.1 inches high, is so popular they make it all year round. It often sells out before noon, so if you do miss out on nabbing a slice, don’t despair. Gilli is a stop on our Florence Food Lover’s tour, and they always set aside a few for us.
Other great Florentine Carnevale bakeries are Caffè Pasticceria Serafini on Via Vincenzo Gioberti and Pasticceria Marisa Firenze on Via Circondaria. Hungry for more? Check out our post on must-try Carnevale pastries and desserts. Buon Carnevale!
Next article? Where to get the best coffee in Florence. Subscribe here to get first dips on latest Italy travel tips.
Hungry for more? Check out our progressive culinary tours! Come taste the region’s top delicacies and the city’s main points of interest by foot with a food obsessed local serving as your personal treasure chest of knowledge. Contact us for more details!
